It has five-ridged meaty pods on compact plants. Red Velvet grows 4 to 5 feet tall with pods that are slightly ribbed and best enjoyed when 3 to 6 inches long. It matures in 55 to 60 days. Simpson is an okra variety that matures in 50 days from transplanting.
It is open-pollinated with green, 5-inch-long ribbed pods. Most okra varieties have green pods but there are red-podded varieties as well. Always water under the foliage, right at ground level, to avoid getting the leaves and pods wet, as wet leaves invite disease. Watering late in the day can create undesirable conditions overnight. Adding finished compost or organic matter at planting time will give okra much of the fertility it needs to get through the season, but a light monthly application of organic fertilizer will increase yield.
A balanced natural fertilizer like a is best. I also like fish emulsion or seaweed-based fertilizer. More does not equal better, as over-fertilizing can cause more harm than good. A few pests and a few diseases affect okra but they are usually manageable. The best natural defense from pests is to cover your plants from the moment you put them in the ground with row cover. For diseases, practice crop rotation if a pathogen becomes a recurring problem. Aphids are soft-bodied sucking insects that are vectors for plant diseases.
They may be found on the underside of okra leaves or on the stems. As they eat plant leaves they excrete honeydew, which attracts ants and other insects. They are easily controlled by knocking them off plants with a sharp stream of water. Armyworms are moth larvae that attack okra seedlings or munch the leaves of mature okra plants. Handpick eggs on stems and under leaves, and pick off any caterpillars, which may be green or black and gray. Bt is an organic control for moth and butterfly larvae that is safe around humans and pets and will not harm other wildlife.
Just be sure not to apply it around butterfly larvae host plants such as milkweed and fennel. Blossom blight may occur when temperatures are high and there has been a lot of rain. Remove the affected blossoms and any pods that have begun to go soft.
Fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt are caused by soil-borne fungi. Starting off with compost-rich soil in the ground or premium-potting mix in containers is the best proactive defense against wilt. Cucumber beetles are chewing insects that damage leaves. There are a few species of cucumber beetles with different ranges, but all have the same effect on okra. Floating row cover can keep them off, and they can be hand-picked.
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can affect okra. Proper spacing of plants to provide air circulation can stop powdery mildew from becoming an issue. A solution of baking soda or diluted milk can slow the spread or be used as a preventative measure. Read my comprehensive guide to powdery mildew control for more.
Root knot nematode is a tiny worm that parasitizes okra. Marigolds interplanted with food crops are said to repel nematodes. After the first harvest, apply 1 cup of garden fertilizer for each 10 feet of row. Scatter the fertilizer evenly between the rows. Mix it lightly with the soil. Water the plants after fertilizing. Many insecticides are available at garden centers for homeowner use. Sevin is a synthetic insecticide; organic options include sulfur and Bt-based insecticides.
Sulfur has also fungicidal properties and helps control many diseases. Before using a pesticide, read the label and always follow cautions, warnings, and directions. Diseases on okra are most severe in cloudy, damp weather.
Check the plants daily and treat them with an approved fungicide if diseases appear. Neem oil, sulfur, and other fungicides are available for use. Always follow label directions. Okra plants will produce large flowers about 2 months after planting. The okra pods will be ready to pick 3 to 4 days later.
Harvest the pods when they are 3 to 4 inches long. If the okra gets too large, it will be tough and stringy. Pick the okra every 1 to 2 days or yields will decrease Fig. Okra can be stored for 3 to 5 days in the refrigerator. Okra that is too mature can be dried, cured, and used in flower arrangements. Keep your veggie patch clean, and remove dead leaves and old vegetation. Walk through your garden each day, and be on the lookout for aphids and stink bugs feeding on the juices of emerging pods.
Remember that beneficial insects like ladybugs are your friends in the veggie patch, and they should be allowed to stay! Look for cabbage worms and flea beetles munching leaves, and check the undersides of leaves for bug eggs and whiteflies. In addition, a fungus called fusarium wilt may occur where there is too much moisture. Its telltale sign is drooping yellow leaves. Plants that succumb to this must be destroyed, to prevent spread to other plants.
Anthracnose fungus is another potential issue, noted by black spots on leaves. Again, you should remove any infected plants to prevent further spread in the garden.
Powdery mildew, noted by white and powdery spots on plants as the name suggests, may also affect okra growing in humid and overly moist conditions. Remove affected portions, prune back plants for good airflow, and always plant in well-draining soil.
Read more about treating powdery mildew disease. Okra is a cultigen , meaning it has been improved upon via selective breeding and hybridization for many generations, to produce the most delicious harvests and attractive, resilient plants. And while the flavor of the resulting fruits is generally mild, aficionados of old heirlooms often swear their favorites are best. If you garden in the South, all varieties should serve you well, as okra loves heat, humidity, and a long growing season.
For Northerners, cultivars bred for better cold tolerance and a shorter growing season are best. To save your skin, look for spineless varieties — but keep in mind that no cultivar is truly entirely free of those potentially irritating little hairs that grow on the plant. Plants mature in days, maxing out around 4 feet in height. Dark green pods grow to about 5 inches long, with a slight curve. For something a little different, add some color to your crops. This red variety matures in 60 days, reaching four feet in height.
Straight pods will grow up to eight inches long, if you want to keep them on your plants for ornamental interest. Want more options? If they are too tough and stringy at that length, you can start harvesting them two inches. If you pick ever other day and keep on top of them, your pods should keep blooming and produce tasty pods all summer long. Get more details on okra harvesting here. There are so many reasons to add okra to your garden planner this growing season. Remember, the more nutritious veggies your garden grows, the healthier you can be.
Why not dedicate more of your landscape to the cultivation of edible plants, and make every square foot count. See our TOS for more details.
Product photos via Eden Brothers and Seedsurvivor. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. With additional writing and editing by Allison Sidhu. Nan Schiller is a writer with deep roots in the soil of southeastern Pennsylvania. Her background includes landscape and floral design, a BS in business from Villanova University, and a Certificate of Merit in floral design from Longwood Gardens. Hello, I noticed in many instructions for germinating seeds of many plant types, the instructions include soaking the seeds over night or even longer.
Most seeds need to be submersed in water for hours at the most!
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