We see into a scene's brightly lit areas, and we can also tell what's going on in the shadows. The camera is going to have trouble capturing the ends of that drastic range. If you choose to meter for the highlights the bright areas , you'll lose pretty much all the detail in the shadow areas of the scene. Try it the other way—meter for the shadows—and it's likely you'll end up with what are commonly called "blown out" highlights. A familiar example of that: a well-exposed room interior in which the windows are blazing with light.
If you expose to capture what's outside those windows, the room's details are going to be lost in shadow. And when you shoot outdoors, the sunlight that creates bright highlights will also create dark shadows; expose for one and you lose detail in the other.
But when you make an HDR image, what you see is what you're going to get because an HDR photograph results when you take a series of exposures—commonly called a bracket—to capture both highlights and shadow detail. We talked recently with nature photographer Tony Sweet about the techniques he uses to create HDR images in both outdoor and indoor situations. First, his camera is always on a tripod to insure that the images he's going to take don't vary in composition, and that every shot is as sharp as it can be.
Then he sets his Nikon D-SLR for aperture priority operation—meaning that the aperture he chooses will not vary from shot to shot. Tony usually makes a five-shot bracket, though three- and seven-shot brackets are also common in HDR photography. The choice often depends on the range and severity of the scene's contrast. He takes the bracket using his camera's auto bracketing feature—which does pretty much what the name suggests.
Once he picks the steps the increments of the bracket, the camera handles the rest. If auto bracketing is available on your Nikon D-SLR, the camera manual will tell you how to select and set it. If it's not offered on your model, you can make your bracket manually using the exposure compensation dial.
What the bracket provides are exposures that, in total, contain all the highlight and shadow information the scene has to offer—in other words, the full range of the scene's contrast. When you bring those exposures into an HDR software program, you can create a single image that represents the scene virtually as you saw it—or, if you wish to get creative, the software also provides the tools for those personal touches we mentioned earlier. The HDR process gives you the choice: create a realistic image that represents all the subtleties of the scene, or go for an illustrative, hyper-color graphic To do that, you need to use bracketing , which is taking multiple images of the same scene at different exposures.
Most cameras now come with auto bracketing modes AEB , but you always have the choice to manually adjust your exposures between shots. HDR Photography usually involves several bracketed images with a minimum of three images to capture the dynamic range.
One image is exposed for the darker areas in your scene, another for the mid-tones and the third for the highlights. When you merge these images, you create an HDR image which reveals more detail than a single shot. Think of it as extending the tonal range of what your camera reproduces to mimic what your eyes see, as opposed to the graphic style that HDR has become synonymous with.
Subtle HDR also helps reveal textures in an image. Truthfully the steps for making a realistic HDR are not drastically different from one that looks overly processed. The key is to know when to stop processing. Typically these include scenes that have a lot of contrast, for example, landscape and architectural photography.
HDR is not recommended for scenes with a moving subject, or for shooting portraits as it has a reputation for aging faces. To eliminate or minimize movement between your shots, a tripod is an essential tool. This also ensures that each image in your sequence has the same composition. The best times for an HDR shoot are at dawn, early in the morning, or when the sun has set.
HDR also works well when photographing a shaded subject against a bright sky. If photographing an object in direct sunlight, dark shadows are likely to be cast within the scene. Real estate photographers often find themselves working in very challenging conditions. Property exterior or interior is easy to shoot because they are static subjects.
However, photography can be challenging concerning what lighting looks best in a scene. HDR photography allows photographers to get details in both highlights and shadows by combining several images into one final image during post-production. While the mechanics of taking HDR photos is different for both an iPhone and digital camera, the results of several images merging into one HDR image are the same. Blurred edges or images occur from movement.
It causes the individual images that form an HDR picture not to line up correctly. Make sure the Keep Normal Photo option is switched on. The individual images, which may be saved depending on the operating system and model, can take up storage space. Therefore, make sure to change the setting to discard the original photos and only keep the HDR image.
It takes slightly longer to capture an HDR photo than a regular one on an iPhone. The camera has to capture three images at different exposures and combine them into a single picture. Movement results in a blurred image. Capturing a series of photos assembled into a final HDR image is called exposure bracketing. The more images in the bracket, the more professional an HDR photo will look.
Digital cameras allow you to set bracket exposures automatically. Most cameras offer three-shot auto-exposure bracketing, though some models allow for five-shot and even seven-shot brackets.
Set the bracketing to 2 exposure value EV increments. The first photo you take will be too dark, the second photo will be correctly exposed, and the third photo will be too light or over-exposed the shutter has to be pressed three times for all exposures to complete.
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